The Power Behind Food Critics That Ratatouille Didn't Exaggerate

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A food critic isn’t a villain — they’re the Power Behind Food, the invisible force that can shape reputations with a single bite.

Not every sharp knife is in the kitchen; sometimes, it’s in the pen.

From Taste to Fate: The Power Behind Food Critics

In the animated film Ratatouille, we see just how powerful a food critic can be — powerful enough to end a chef’s career with a single review. Some people might brush it off and say, “Come on, it’s just a cartoon. That kind of thing doesn’t happen in real life.”

And sure — if we’re speaking in 2025, that might sound true. But if we go back to the early 21st century, the world of fine dining revolved around one of the most feared and respected figures in the culinary world: the food critic. Back then, a single pen stroke could decide the fate of an entire restaurant. Critics weren’t just writing reviews — they were delivering verdicts. And for chefs, especially in Michelin-star circles, those words could mean glory… or closure.

In the culinary world, a chef’s fate can hang by a thread — and that thread often lies in the hands of a food critic. If a critic declares a restaurant mediocre, the public is likely to believe them. A single negative review can quietly seal a restaurant’s doom. But at the same time, one glowing review has the power to transform a humble little eatery into the city’s most sought-after dining spot. The words of a critic can either cut down a dream or crown it — and that’s the invisible force many chefs live with every day.🍷✨

Ruth Reichl ,Ruth Reichl Dishes on the Last Days of Gourmet Magazine – The New York Times

One of the most influential food critics of the 20th century was Ruth Reichl, who served as the restaurant critic for The New York Times from 1993 to 1999. Known for her unorthodox approach, Reichl often disguised herself as an ordinary diner to avoid special treatment from restaurants. Only after experiencing the food and service incognito would she return to write her review — and her words carried weight. A single positive review from her could spark months-long reservation lists, turning hidden gems into culinary landmarks overnight. But the flip side was just as powerful: restaurants once basking in fame could find themselves closing their doors after a scathing critique. Reichl didn’t just review food — she shifted the trajectory of entire businesses with her pen.

One of Reichl’s most famous reviews was her 1993 critique of Le Cirque — a restaurant considered one of New York’s most iconic fine dining institutions at the time. What made the review so memorable wasn’t just the food, but the way she told the story. Reichl used a dual narrative technique to describe two entirely different experiences: the first as an anonymous diner, and the second as a known food critic. In her piece, she wrote, “On a first visit, she is treated with casual indifference. On a second visit, when she is recognized, she is treated like royalty. The food, however, is equally magnificent.” Her message was subtle yet cutting — she praised the cuisine but exposed the disparity in hospitality. The review became a cultural moment, not just for its content, but for how it challenged the restaurant industry to reflect on fairness, consistency, and the weight of perception.

This review sent shockwaves through New York’s restaurant scene. By exposing the stark contrast between how ordinary diners and known critics were treated, Reichl sparked widespread discussion — and discomfort — across the industry. The owner of Le Cirque eventually issued a public apology, and the review forced many high-end restaurants to reconsider and reform their service policies, striving for more equitable treatment of all guests. It wasn’t just a review — it was a cultural reckoning. To this day, Reichl’s Le Cirque piece remains one of the most influential restaurant critiques in culinary history.

⭐ Food Critics and the Power of the Michelin Star

Beyond individual food critics, the Michelin star system itself has long stood as one of the most powerful markers of culinary excellence — especially in Europe, where gaining or losing a star can dramatically impact a restaurant’s reputation and revenue. One tragic example of its weight was the case of French chef Bernard Loiseau, who took his own life in 2003 after rumors circulated that his restaurant might lose a Michelin star. For decades, critics and institutions like Michelin — along with platforms such as Zagat, which shaped diner decisions in cities like New York and Los Angeles — acted as the ultimate arbiters of taste. A high Zagat score could become a restaurant’s calling card, drawing in customers on reputation alone.

But with the rise of social media, the landscape has shifted. Today, the collective voice of everyday diners has grown louder than ever. Review platforms, Instagram posts, and viral TikToks now carry immense influence, often outweighing the words of professional critics. While critics and stars still hold a certain prestige, their authority is no longer absolute. In this new era, power has become decentralized — and the public, not the press, often has the final say on what’s worth tasting.

And in the animated film Ratatouille (2007), this very phenomenon was brought to life through the character of Anton Ego — a fearsome food critic known for his sharp tongue and uncompromising views. He embodied the archetype of the old-world critic, one whose words could either elevate or destroy a restaurant. But beyond that, Ego’s arc served as a powerful reminder of the weight criticism can carry — not just within the food industry, but in life.

Whether we’re the ones offering critique or the ones receiving it, we all bear a responsibility for the impact of our words. A food review might seem like a matter of taste or an exercise in witty writing, but for the person behind the plate, that dish represents so much more — their craft, their dreams, and their dedication. It’s a reminder that criticism, no matter how honest or well-intended, should be delivered with care and awareness of the human story behind the work. And this, perhaps, applies to far more than food alone.